Along Lake Esplanade, Queenstown

One of my favourite places in Queenstown is along this street called Lake Esplanade. Each time I am in Queenstown, without fail, I would spend time strolling along this stretch of road. Lake Esplanade is very central and leads to/from Queenstown CBD near the Steamers’ Wharf where the steamship TSS Earnslaw docks. I guess many tourists/visitors have strolled along this street without knowing its name.

On one side of the road are the hotels and apartments, and on the other side is a park/reserve that fronts Lake Wakatipu and this park/reserve offers a picturesque view of the mountains and lake. Many of my best memories and best photos of New Zealand were along this street.

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The hotels and apartments along Lake Esplanade
Queenstown, Aug 2006

If you are looking for accommodation in Queenstown, especially with views of the mountains and lake, you may wish to consider the hotels and apartments along Lake Esplanade. In above photo, you will find the Rydges Hotel (white building from the left), Outrigger, The Beacon (centre) and Lakefront Apartments (right, with blue signposts).

Opposite these hotels and apartments is the park/reserve where I shot the following photos:

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From the left, The Remarkables, Cecil Peak and Walter Peak on a beautiful winter evening
Queenstown, Aug 2006


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Another beautiful winter scene
On the extreme left, the headlights of a car on Lake Esplanade
Queenstown, Aug 2006


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.... and yet another beautfiul winter scene
The Remarkables run in a North-South direction
and the rays of the setting sun lit up its face "on fire"
Queenstown, Aug 2006

Maori Song "Pokarekare Ana"

It has been two months since I last posted! Thought I had better get back to posting more regularly as some of you have wondered about my absence from the blog.

Today’s posting is not about my vacations in New Zealand. Nevertheless, it concerns New Zealand, a country that I love and is close to my heart. The song Pokarekare Ana is a Maori love song about someone separated from his love and longing for her. The origin of this Maori song traces as far back to 1914 and arose at about the time of World War I.

Below Maori lyrics and English translation are from http://folksong.org.nz/pokarekare/index.html

This beautiful Maori song has been sung by the talented Kiwi gal Hayley Westenra. It is supposed to be a man’s love song to a young lady but Hayley has done a fantastic rendition of it. She sang it so beautifully and made many Kiwis proud of their Maori culture and heritage .... and made them very proud of her too.

I believe you will enjoy it. Here is the beautiful song Pokarekare Ana:


Lyrics:

Pokarekare ana nga wai o Waiapu Whiti atu koe hine marino ana e E hine e hoki mai ra, Ka mate ahau I te aroha e. Tuhituhi taku reta tuku atu taku rïngi, Kia kite to iwi raru raru ana e. Whati whati taku pene ka pau aku pepa, Ko taku aroha mau tonu ana e. E kore te aroha e maroke i te ra, Makuku tonu i aku roimata e.

They are agitated the waters of Waiapu, But when you cross over girl they will be calm. Oh girl return to me, I could die of love for you. I have written my letter I have sent my ring, so that your people can see that I am troubled. My pen is shattered, I have no more paper But my love is still steadfast. My love will never be dried by the sun, It will be forever moistened by my tears.

The Remarkable Beauty, Queenstown, New Zealand

The Remarkables at Queenstown creates an impressive backdrop for many photographers and film makers. It was used as the backdrop of a scene in the Lord of The Rings movie too (click for more info).

The mountain range is geographically unique as it runs in a North-South direction. So even without a compass, you can tell where North, South, East and West are, simply by looking at the mountain range.

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The left side points North, while the right side points South
View from Deer Park
Queenstown, Aug 2006
There are various stories regarding how The Remarkables got its name. One story cites its unique North-South orientation. Another which I have read attributes it to the different colours of the mountain range as seen during the day and across the seasons. Having seen for myself the colours of The Remarkables over the many vacations spent in Queenstown, I will go for the latter story.

If a picture paints a thousand words, then these photos speak volumes about the remarkable beauty of The Remarkables.

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The Remarkables in ash-grey in winter
View from Steamer Wharf
Queenstown, July 2004

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The Remarkables in "brownies" in late spring
View from Lake Esplanade
Queenstown, Nov 2005
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The Remarkables having the "blues" in winter
View from Lake Esplanade
Queenstown, Aug 2006
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The Remarkables in the "pink of health" in winter
View from Lake Esplanade
Queenstown, Aug 2006
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The Remarkables "on fire" in winter
View from Lake Esplanade
Queenstown, Aug 2006

STOP at Queenstown, New Zealand

Surrounding Queenstown, there are 3 easily recognizable mountain ranges. They are The Remarkables with its Double Cone Peak at 2,343m, Cecil Peak at 1,974m and Walter Peak at 1,815m. They are shown in below photos as from left to right.

I have been in Queenstown across all four seasons and every time I have enjoyed its spectacular scenery. The weather, sunlight, clouds, water in the lake and even the trees, they all make this place very beautiful across the seasons. Do you see the red road sign in the middle of below photo? It shows “STOP” and that was what I did to enjoy the view and to capture it!

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This view was taken on a rather steep road in early winter
Steamer Wharf, where TSS Earnslaw docks, is behind the brown building on the left
Queenstown, Jun 2005
Queenstown is especially popular with tourists in summer and winter. There is no better season than summer to enjoy the activities that this Adventure Capital offers. If you are tramping into the national parks, kayaking, jetboating, bungee jumping, horse riding …. or joining the numerous tours, the fine weather in summer is best for these outdoor activities.

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View from the bay in early spring
Steamer Wharf is at the building on the extreme right
Queenstown, Sep 2005
If you visit Queenstown in summer for its spectacular scenery, then you may be a little disappointed as the mountains will be bare of snow as shown in bottom photo. It is still a scenic place but in my opinion, without the snow on the mountains, Queenstown lacks the wow(!) factor.

My favourite seasons to visit are mid-autumn (April), mid-late winter (Jul-Aug) and early-mid spring (Sep-Oct).

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View from the bay (near Steamer Wharf) in early spring
Queenstown, Sep 2005
Queenstown Gardens is the area of the trees in these photos. In autumn, the smaller trees along the lakefront are golden yellow and make a spectacular sight. I don’t have the digital photos (only in prints) but you can imagine the golden yellow colours against the bigger trees which are still dark green, against blue skies, blue Lake Wakatipu, and against the dark golden brown mountain range of The Remarkables, Cecil Peak and Walter Peak. A beautiful sight and that first trip in autumn made me fall in love with Queenstown!

If you are planning a vacation in New Zealand, do STOP and spend a few days in Queenstown to take in the beautiful scenery. Life just may not be the same again for you!

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View from Steamer Wharf in early summer
Queenstown, Dec 2005

Heartbeat of a Giant - Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown

According to Maori legend, Lake Wakatipu is the “Hollow of the Giant” (Whakatipua). There was an evil giant in the land and one day while he was asleep, a brave Maori youth set him on fire and killed him. The fire melted the surrounding snow on the mountains to form the water in the lake.

Well, Lake Wakatipu is a giant! With a length of 84 km, it is New Zealand’s longest lake and its 3rd largest lake with an area of 291 km². It has an unsual “Z”-shaped bend, somewhat like the lightning bolt of the Marvel Comics superhero Flash. Some also refer to it as the reversed “N” shape.

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One end of Lake Wakatipu lies far away in the middle of this photo
Queenstown, Aug 2006
For more info on this photo, click here
One end of the lake is near the Southern Alps where the melt waters become the Dart River that flows into it. At the other end of the lake at Frankton, near Queenstown Airport, the Kawaura River flows out, draining the lake.

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The Kawaura River flows out of Lake Wakatipu at Frankton
Queenstown, Aug 2006
For more info on this photo, click here
Geologically, the lake was carved out by great glaciers during the ice age. It is very deep, reaching to depths of almost 300m and almost 100m below sea level.

There is also an unusual phenomena at Lake Wakatipu. Every 5 minutes, the water in the lake rise and then fall as much as 12cm. Early Maori noticed this phenomena too and attributed this rhythmic rise and fall to the heartbeat of a giant. There is a scientific explanation for this and putting it simply, it is a natural oscillation that occurs in deep inland lakes.

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Queenstown Bay
Queenstown, May 2005
These Maori legends add to the colourful history and beauty of Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown.

Beautiful Queenstown, New Zealand

Of all the many places I have visited (and re-visited) in New Zealand, Queenstown remains my favourite destination. I have been there at least 10 times, nevertheless this place continues to excite me. It is the Adventure Capital of the World but it is not the adrenalin pumping activities that makes me return but the natural beauty of this place.

Being a city dweller, the type of mountains I have known for most part of my life are skyscrapers and highrise buildings. So seeing the majestic mountain ranges of New Zealand and getting on top of one by helicopter, have done wonders for my soul!

I have many photos of the beautiful scenery of Queenstown. Sorting and selecting them to form panoramas have been quite a task! The next couple of postings will feature these scenery and through the photos you will catch a glimpse of the beautiful memories that I have of Queenstown. So here goes:

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Early morning in winter
Queenstown, May 2005
Queenstown is located on the shore of Lake Wakatipu and surrounded by majestic mountain ranges. Queenstown Central/CBD (Central Business District) is on the left side in these photos. Across the lake, Cecil Peak is the mountain on the left and Walter Peak is the pyramidal mountain in the centre of these photos.

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Early morning in winter
Queenstown, Aug 2006
For a leisurely walk in Queenstown Gardens, head towards the trees on the left side of the lake. On the extreme right, the Skyline Gondola takes you to the top of Bob's Peak (the peak without snow) where you get a bird's eye view of the surrounding region!

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Late morning in winter
Queenstown, Aug 2006
Talking about birds, you will find them along the lakefront. In these photos, you can spot the seagulls and ducks (on the lake). For several years, there was a lone goose that made its home on the Queenstown bay too. Then came another one and they became geese. Last year (2006), I spotted only one of them and I guess the missing one has "flown away to bird heaven".

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Dusk in winter
Queenstown, Aug 2006

Along the lakefront, the white vessel is the vintage steamship TSS Earnslaw (it looks quite small in these photos). Everyday, the TSS Earnslaw ferries tourists on a leisurely cruise across the lake from Queenstown bay to the Walter Peak High Country Farm. For an adrenaline pumping ride, then the yellow Kawaura jet boats in these photos will provide your water adventure.

Wai Ora Spa in Hell's Gate, Rotorua

With these postings on Hell’s Gate and Rotorua, I would be doing injustice not to mention another main attraction that visitors come to Rotoura for: hot springs and spa. There were a couple of options available in Rotorua but I decided to experience something more raw and unique …… and I could play with mud!

At Hell’s Gate, you will find Wai Ora Spa. Hell’s Gate or Tikitere has been known by the local Maori for over 800 hundred years. It is renowned as a place of healing and revitalizing. Besides its sulphurous waters, its specialty is also in its mud! The mud found at Hell’s Gate is very fine (smooth) and it is said to be among the finest in the world. If you are into spa and body mud, you may wish to visit Wai Ora Spa when you are in Rotorua.

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Signpost to Wai Ora Spa
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
This is not the typical commercial spa with enclosed or private rooms. Instead, it is in the outdoor and each pool is separated by wooden partitions which offer little privacy. No skinny dipping or frolicking in the buff! Bring your swimming trunk/costume if you want to enjoy the mud spa. By the way, while I was seated in the pool, Wai Ora staff came in and put a dipstick into the water to measure water temperature.

Each pool is a rectangular concrete pool which holds the warm muddy water. So where was the mud? Well, I had to scoop (or scrape) it from the bottom of the pool with my fingers! There was not much mud to play with but sufficient to coat all over my body. The mud was easy to spread and felt very smooth. After coating myself, I sat on the pool edge to let the mud dry up. It was very late autumn and the wind was a little chilly. So after a while I was back inside the pool to enjoy the warm water, then coating myself with mud again and letting it dry up.

It would have been better if there was more mud in the pool. The mud in Hell’s Gate must be a precious commodity as it is also used in a range of beauty spa products. More in the pool means less products to go around.

When the time came to leave the mud pool, I had to do the unpleasant thing of taking a cold shower to wash off all the mud before heading over to the hot sulphurous pools for a good soak.

The spa was a good experience! I felt really good and relaxed. My skin felt smooth too except that I carried the smell of sulphur for another few more days.

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Signboard – Map of Hell’s Gate
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

Hot Waterfall in Hell's Gate, Rotorua

Within the compound of Hell’s Gate, lies another world of lush greenery that is very different from the landscape of craters, sulphur deposits and boiling pools. A short walk through lush forest and we saw below waterfall. Kakahi Falls is the largest hot waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. In the past, Maori warriors after battle would bathe in these waters to heal their wounds and remove their “tapu” of war. The sulphurous waters is said to promote the healing of wounds.

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Kakahi Falls
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Kakahi Falls looks like a nice spot for a relaxing bath. I can imagine the Maori warriors sitting with their backs against the stone walls (see close-up) with the hot water flowing over their bodies. In such a tranquil spot with surrounding greenery and hot water, I would certainly enjoy my bath there too!

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Close-up of Kakahi Falls
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

Muddy Pools, Sulphur Deposits and "Fart" Holes in Hell's Gate, Rotorua

Hell’s Gate will not be complete without a mention of the Devil. Below photo shows a small crater/pool with the signpost tagging it as "Devil’s Cauldron". What was different about this pool from most others, was that it looked murky, muddy and there was an oily film on the water. My guide said perhaps there is oil in the ground!

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Devil’s Cauldron
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Below photo shows another larger but similarly murky, muddy and oily pool. Look at the other pool in the background. It is an interesting contrast because you can catch a reflection of the sky, clouds and trees in the water. If you are wondering about the yellow "soil" around this muddy pool, yes, these are sulphur deposits.

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Another larger pool of "hot chocolate"
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Below, more photos of sulphur deposits. You will find these throughout the landscape of Hell’s Gate. It is all these sulphur fumes emitting from the ground that gives Hell’s Gate and Rotorua their infamous rotten-egg smell! Do you see the hole in the ground (bottom photo)? The sulphur gases would have been released under much pressure to have caused this hole. Another motivation to stay on the pathway is that we can never know when the ground will release these gases suddenly. Imagine what it would be like to be "farted" at close range! ..... Awesome! ;-)

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Sulphur deposits

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Beware of "fart" holes!
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

"Land Coral" in Hell's Gate, Rotorua

One of the unusual things we saw at Hell’s Gate pertains to something called “land coral”. On the guided tour, we got the opportunity to venture out of the pathway with the guide to get a closeup of some interesting sights. If you are self-guided, please stay on the pathway for your own safety as the ground is rather unstable and the Hell’s Gate terrain is filled with craters, boiling mud and boiling ponds!

After the guide had given his safety instructions, he divided the tour into small groups of 3-4 persons each and we made our way in single file behind him. In spite of strict and clear instructions that we were to follow him directly from behind, to walk where he walked, nevertheless the guide saw someone taking a few steps off from his route and he had to ask if the guy understood English at all!

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Terrain of craters, boiling mud and boiling ponds!
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
In above photo, the guide (in red) was pointing to a pond where steam was rising from. What we were looking at was the pond in below photo. Along the edge of the pond, was some kind of “deposit” called “land coral”. It seems that this “deposit” was the evidence of a certain form of bacteria that could thrive in such harsh conditions of boiling water and acidity. As the bacteria grew and multiplied, the “deposit” becomes larger. It is fascinating to learn that Nature provides an abundance of life even in such an environment. What would kill a human being was life-giving to a bacteria!

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Boiling pond teeming with bacteria life
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Below two photos show the close-ups of “land coral”.


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“Land coral”
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

Mud Volcano at Hell's Gate

Given its unique landscape, Hell’s Gate presents an excellent opportunity for academic learning and research. My guide told us that the geothermal park had even played hosts to student groups from USA and Singapore. These students had spent several days in the park having their field lessons in geography and chemistry.

There have been geologists spending considerable time studying the unique land features in the park too. Below is a mud volcano which is still growing. Hot mud oozes from the ground and builds up to form this mud volcano. Notice the amount of steam in below photo. At the bottom right, you can also spot an impression of a footprint!

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Steaming hot mud volcano
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Below photo puts the size of this mud volcano in perspective.

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Mud volcano
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
This mud volcano has attracted the attention of a number of geologists. About 2-3 years ago, there was a French volcanologist who was especially interested in it. Unable to contain his curiosity, he got off the designated pathway for a closer look. He wanted to examine the top portion of this mud volcano so he decided to step on it. His initial steps must have been well supported because when he was somewhere in the middle of the volcano, his leg went right through into the mud! What happened thereafter was a frantic rescue. This volcanologist suffered serious burns on his leg and was hospitalized for more than a month!

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Where the volcanologist sank in
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Above photo shows the side of this mud volcano where this volcanologist sank in. If you are all ready for an adventure in New Zealand, then it would be good to restrain yourself and stay on (not stray off) the path in Hell’s Gate. You wouldn’t want to spend your New Zealand vacation in hospital, would you? Instead, keep your adventure spirit and put it to good use when you are in Queenstown, which is the Adventure Capital of the World.

Staying On The Path Inside Hell's Gate

Unlike Wai-O-Tapu, Hell’s Gate looks more raw and rough and it lacks the commercial development of a typical New Zealand tourist site. Its natural landscape looks uniquely different too.

If you have not got used to the sulphurous odour of Rotorua, then you may find the rotten egg (or fart!) smell here too overpowering. Hell's Gate claims to be the most geothermally active field and you are right in the heart of stink country with all these fumes around you! Well, one good thing is that you can fart here and no one can smell the difference in the air quality! Looking at these photos, you will find that Hell's Gate will be the steamiest part of your vacation in New Zealand. Besides visiting these geothermal parks, do plan to enjoy Rotorua's tourism appeal as a spa destination too.

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Unique landscape of this geothermal park, with lots of steam & smell too!
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
There are lots of interesting land features to look at. However, do heed the warning signs and stay on the path at all times. The whole area is rather unstable and you never know when the ground beneath your feet will collapse!

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Big stink-hole, the ground looks deceivingly stable and firm!
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Above crater is just about 1.5-2m away from the pathway. The guide told us that this steaming big hole had suddenly appeared one morning. He had guided a tour group along the pathway in the morning and the ground at that spot had appeared normal. By afternoon when his fellow colleague guided another tour, they discovered this big gaping hole in the ground. It would have been a disaster if the ground had collapsed and someone had fallen into the boiling mud beneath!

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Staying on (not straying off) the path!
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
It took 6 photos to compose above panorama. If you are on the guided tour, you may get the opportunity to venture out of the pathway with the guide to see some interesting features at close up. Remember the prayer/chant that the Maori guide said at the waharoa and watch your step!

Entering Hell's Gate

Entering Hell's Gate, the visitor will pass beneath a wooden Maori archway called a waharoa. It contains elaborate carvings and tells the legend of the early Maori chief who settled here and whose descendants today own Hell's Gate.

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Waharoa
Hell's Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
If you join the guided tour, the group will first stop in front of the waharoa to listen to the legend. Afterwhich, the Maori guide will say a short prayer/chant for the blessing and protection of the group before entering Hell's Gate. While some may feel uncomfortable about this, believe me, it is a very good way to get the attention of everyone to watch their steps the moment they are inside Hell's Gate! You will do well to heed the warning signs in this place.

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Welcome signboard explaining the Waharoa
Hell's Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

A Steamy Vacation in Rotorua !

How about spending a steamy vacation in New Zealand? That’s what playwright George Bernard Shaw did in his visit to Rotorua in 1934! He must have been awed by the landscape of boiling mud pools, steaming fumeroles and caught a glimpse of what he thought hell would look like that he gave a geothermal reserve its famous name “Hell’s Gate”.

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Your kind of steamy vacation ?
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Hell’s Gate Geothermal Reserve covers 50 acres and claims to be the most active geothermal field in Rotorua. It is also the only Maori owned geothermal reserve in the Rotorua / Taupo region. It’s Maori name, Tikitere is an abbreviation of “Taku tiki i tere nei” which means “my daughter has floated away”. The legend concerns Maori princess Hurutini who threw herself into a boiling pool in this place because her husband had treated her with contempt. Hurutini’s mum was very upset by her daughter's death and seeing her body afloat on the water. Hence, the name Tikitere.

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Another steamy photo
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

The Grandfather at Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua

The following are some of the interesting features found in Wai-O-Tapu. The Oyster Pool is named after its distinct shape and it is one of the smallest pools in this geothermal park.

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Oyster Pool
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
Below Frying Pan Flat is an eruption crater with an unstable floor. The pool is characterized by lots of bubbling hot springs and fumeroles. The water flows from the Champagne Pool, crosses this Frying Pan Flat to emerge as a stream that flows into Lake Ngakoro.

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Frying Pan Flat
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
Below panorama was composed from 6 photos. From the right, the water flows from the Frying Pan Flat, tumbles across the rocks and ends as Lake Ngakoro Waterfall which empties into the green waters of Lake Ngakoro, The Grandfather. Lake Ngakoro covers about 12 hectares and was formed after an eruption about 700 years ago. Notice the rough rock edges along the stream as well as the rocks littering the edge of the lake.

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Lake Ngakoro Waterfall
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
It was raining and misty on my day of visit last May. I will surely revisit Wai-O-Tapu to see it in bright sunny weather when its brilliant colours are at their best. The thought of my next vacation to New Zealand gets me excited again! Look out for my next posting as I will introduce another interesting place in Rotorua.