Maori Song "Pokarekare Ana"

It has been two months since I last posted! Thought I had better get back to posting more regularly as some of you have wondered about my absence from the blog.

Today’s posting is not about my vacations in New Zealand. Nevertheless, it concerns New Zealand, a country that I love and is close to my heart. The song Pokarekare Ana is a Maori love song about someone separated from his love and longing for her. The origin of this Maori song traces as far back to 1914 and arose at about the time of World War I.

Below Maori lyrics and English translation are from http://folksong.org.nz/pokarekare/index.html

This beautiful Maori song has been sung by the talented Kiwi gal Hayley Westenra. It is supposed to be a man’s love song to a young lady but Hayley has done a fantastic rendition of it. She sang it so beautifully and made many Kiwis proud of their Maori culture and heritage .... and made them very proud of her too.

I believe you will enjoy it. Here is the beautiful song Pokarekare Ana:


Lyrics:

Pokarekare ana nga wai o Waiapu Whiti atu koe hine marino ana e E hine e hoki mai ra, Ka mate ahau I te aroha e. Tuhituhi taku reta tuku atu taku rïngi, Kia kite to iwi raru raru ana e. Whati whati taku pene ka pau aku pepa, Ko taku aroha mau tonu ana e. E kore te aroha e maroke i te ra, Makuku tonu i aku roimata e.

They are agitated the waters of Waiapu, But when you cross over girl they will be calm. Oh girl return to me, I could die of love for you. I have written my letter I have sent my ring, so that your people can see that I am troubled. My pen is shattered, I have no more paper But my love is still steadfast. My love will never be dried by the sun, It will be forever moistened by my tears.

Heartbeat of a Giant - Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown

According to Maori legend, Lake Wakatipu is the “Hollow of the Giant” (Whakatipua). There was an evil giant in the land and one day while he was asleep, a brave Maori youth set him on fire and killed him. The fire melted the surrounding snow on the mountains to form the water in the lake.

Well, Lake Wakatipu is a giant! With a length of 84 km, it is New Zealand’s longest lake and its 3rd largest lake with an area of 291 km². It has an unsual “Z”-shaped bend, somewhat like the lightning bolt of the Marvel Comics superhero Flash. Some also refer to it as the reversed “N” shape.

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One end of Lake Wakatipu lies far away in the middle of this photo
Queenstown, Aug 2006
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One end of the lake is near the Southern Alps where the melt waters become the Dart River that flows into it. At the other end of the lake at Frankton, near Queenstown Airport, the Kawaura River flows out, draining the lake.

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The Kawaura River flows out of Lake Wakatipu at Frankton
Queenstown, Aug 2006
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Geologically, the lake was carved out by great glaciers during the ice age. It is very deep, reaching to depths of almost 300m and almost 100m below sea level.

There is also an unusual phenomena at Lake Wakatipu. Every 5 minutes, the water in the lake rise and then fall as much as 12cm. Early Maori noticed this phenomena too and attributed this rhythmic rise and fall to the heartbeat of a giant. There is a scientific explanation for this and putting it simply, it is a natural oscillation that occurs in deep inland lakes.

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Queenstown Bay
Queenstown, May 2005
These Maori legends add to the colourful history and beauty of Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown.

Wai Ora Spa in Hell's Gate, Rotorua

With these postings on Hell’s Gate and Rotorua, I would be doing injustice not to mention another main attraction that visitors come to Rotoura for: hot springs and spa. There were a couple of options available in Rotorua but I decided to experience something more raw and unique …… and I could play with mud!

At Hell’s Gate, you will find Wai Ora Spa. Hell’s Gate or Tikitere has been known by the local Maori for over 800 hundred years. It is renowned as a place of healing and revitalizing. Besides its sulphurous waters, its specialty is also in its mud! The mud found at Hell’s Gate is very fine (smooth) and it is said to be among the finest in the world. If you are into spa and body mud, you may wish to visit Wai Ora Spa when you are in Rotorua.

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Signpost to Wai Ora Spa
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
This is not the typical commercial spa with enclosed or private rooms. Instead, it is in the outdoor and each pool is separated by wooden partitions which offer little privacy. No skinny dipping or frolicking in the buff! Bring your swimming trunk/costume if you want to enjoy the mud spa. By the way, while I was seated in the pool, Wai Ora staff came in and put a dipstick into the water to measure water temperature.

Each pool is a rectangular concrete pool which holds the warm muddy water. So where was the mud? Well, I had to scoop (or scrape) it from the bottom of the pool with my fingers! There was not much mud to play with but sufficient to coat all over my body. The mud was easy to spread and felt very smooth. After coating myself, I sat on the pool edge to let the mud dry up. It was very late autumn and the wind was a little chilly. So after a while I was back inside the pool to enjoy the warm water, then coating myself with mud again and letting it dry up.

It would have been better if there was more mud in the pool. The mud in Hell’s Gate must be a precious commodity as it is also used in a range of beauty spa products. More in the pool means less products to go around.

When the time came to leave the mud pool, I had to do the unpleasant thing of taking a cold shower to wash off all the mud before heading over to the hot sulphurous pools for a good soak.

The spa was a good experience! I felt really good and relaxed. My skin felt smooth too except that I carried the smell of sulphur for another few more days.

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Signboard – Map of Hell’s Gate
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

Hot Waterfall in Hell's Gate, Rotorua

Within the compound of Hell’s Gate, lies another world of lush greenery that is very different from the landscape of craters, sulphur deposits and boiling pools. A short walk through lush forest and we saw below waterfall. Kakahi Falls is the largest hot waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. In the past, Maori warriors after battle would bathe in these waters to heal their wounds and remove their “tapu” of war. The sulphurous waters is said to promote the healing of wounds.

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Kakahi Falls
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Kakahi Falls looks like a nice spot for a relaxing bath. I can imagine the Maori warriors sitting with their backs against the stone walls (see close-up) with the hot water flowing over their bodies. In such a tranquil spot with surrounding greenery and hot water, I would certainly enjoy my bath there too!

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Close-up of Kakahi Falls
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

Entering Hell's Gate

Entering Hell's Gate, the visitor will pass beneath a wooden Maori archway called a waharoa. It contains elaborate carvings and tells the legend of the early Maori chief who settled here and whose descendants today own Hell's Gate.

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Waharoa
Hell's Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
If you join the guided tour, the group will first stop in front of the waharoa to listen to the legend. Afterwhich, the Maori guide will say a short prayer/chant for the blessing and protection of the group before entering Hell's Gate. While some may feel uncomfortable about this, believe me, it is a very good way to get the attention of everyone to watch their steps the moment they are inside Hell's Gate! You will do well to heed the warning signs in this place.

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Welcome signboard explaining the Waharoa
Hell's Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

A Steamy Vacation in Rotorua !

How about spending a steamy vacation in New Zealand? That’s what playwright George Bernard Shaw did in his visit to Rotorua in 1934! He must have been awed by the landscape of boiling mud pools, steaming fumeroles and caught a glimpse of what he thought hell would look like that he gave a geothermal reserve its famous name “Hell’s Gate”.

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Your kind of steamy vacation ?
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006
Hell’s Gate Geothermal Reserve covers 50 acres and claims to be the most active geothermal field in Rotorua. It is also the only Maori owned geothermal reserve in the Rotorua / Taupo region. It’s Maori name, Tikitere is an abbreviation of “Taku tiki i tere nei” which means “my daughter has floated away”. The legend concerns Maori princess Hurutini who threw herself into a boiling pool in this place because her husband had treated her with contempt. Hurutini’s mum was very upset by her daughter's death and seeing her body afloat on the water. Hence, the name Tikitere.

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Another steamy photo
Hell’s Gate, Rotorua, May 2006

Lady Knox Geyser at Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua

There are two main geyser attractions at Rotorua: The Whakarewarewa Thermal Park and the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.

At Whakarewarewa, among the other geysers, the star is Pohutu which means “Big Splash” in Maori. If you wish to see the greatest geyser in New Zealand, then this is the one. It erupts as many as 20 times a day and reach up to heights of 30 metres. Within this thermal park, you will see bubbling mud and hot thermal springs too. If you would like to experience Maori culture too, the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute is located in the park. You will see skilled Maori carvers and flax weavers at work. There are concert performances in the evening and you can get to experience the hangi, the traditional Maori earth oven meal.

The other main geyser attraction is at the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. I chose Wai-O-Tapu because besides the geyser, I had wanted to see the colourful pools and lakes of this geothermal area.

At Wai-O-Tapu, I was all excited to see the Lady Knox Geyser because it erupts daily at about 10:15am, reaching up to heights of 20 metres. It is amazing to know that even Nature has its own bio-rhythm and “clock” and keeps rather precise time too.

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Lady Knox Geyser minutes before she blows
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
As 10:15am approached, a park warden/guide walked into the enclosed area and stood in front of the geyser. I thought it was foolish of the guide to have done that because we can never be sure of the exact moment the geyser blows. In spite of safety precautions, we should never trifle with this hot shower system. The guide went on to explain about the phenomena of geysers and this guy acted so coolly as if he had eyes behind his head to keep watch on the geyser!

It was then he revealed that someone discovered soap powder could enhance the buildup of pressure and activity which causes the geyser to erupt! This discovery could have been made by convicts who in the past were using the water for their bathing and washing. The guide proceeded to pour soap powder into the mouth of the geyser and a few moments later, Lady Knox began to regurgitate and then she finally blew up.

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Lady Knox Geyser blows after taking in a mouth of soap powder
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
Without soap powder, Lady Knox will not be blowing at 10:15am every day. Left on its own, its cycle varies and the interval of its next eruption could be as much as 1.5 days later.

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Lady Knox Geyser blows at full force
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
It was spectacular watching the force of water coming out from Lady Knox but I could not help feeling kind of cheated. Human kind has once again interfered with nature for the sake of tourism dollars! However, the amazing colours of the pools and lakes in Wai-O-Tapu more than made up for this disappointment.

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, Rotorua

Wai-O-Tapu means “sacred waters” in Maori. For many tourists, the colours of the pools and lakes in Wai-O-Tapu are simply amazing!

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Amazing colour of a pool
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006
Covering 18 square km, Wai-O-Tapu is covered with collapsed craters, cold and boiling pools of mud, water and steaming fumeroles. Beneath the ground, streams are constantly heated by magma and water has been recorded at up to temperatures of 300 degrees Celsius! The water is so hot that it absorbs minerals out of the rocks and passes out as steam at the surface which is ultimately re-absorbed into the ground. The wide range of colours of the pools and lakes in Wai-O-Tapu are due to the rich mineral content in the waters.

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Collapsed crater
Wai-O-Tapu, Rotorua, May 2006

Rotorua – Geothermal Hotspot

In terms of geothermal activity, Rotorua ranks as one of the most active hotspots in the world. At one of the thinnest sections, the Earth’s crust is only about 17km thick and beneath it, molten magma!

The two main attractions that people come to Rotorua to experience are its geothermal activity and Maori culture. Rotorua is a city of about 53,000 people and of which a third is Maori. The city is located on the southern shore of Lake Rotorua. In fact, Lake Rotorua with a diameter of 16 km is the circular depression of a massive volcano! If you get your hands on a topographic map, you would recognize this feature of the land. Being at Rotorua, I would not have realized this at all. So while at this city, I was actually walking and sleeping on the rim of a massive volcano! This Rotorua “volcano” is one of several large volcanoes in the Taupo region. It is estimated to have last erupted about 140,000 years ago and the magma chamber had collapsed to result in the Lake Rotorua we see today.

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Hot, bubbling mud pool
Rotorua, May 2006
The attractions of Rotorua mainly revolve around hot thermal springs, geysers, bubbling mud pools and other geothermal features. You will know you will soon arrive at Rotorua when you smell a rotten-egg odour in the air! This pervasive smell is due to the sulphur fumes which arise from all these geothermal activity. You may find this smell overpowering initially and it kind of makes your head woozy. Not to worry, you will soon get used to it and perhaps you will even crack some jokes about the smell too. My coach driver was joking about passengers boarding the coach and giving him funny looks because they must be thinking that he has been farting on the trip! Kiwi humuor. :-)

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Bubbling mud, contributing its share of “fart” smell in Rotorua
Rotorua, May 2006

Giants of the Puketi Kauri Forest

The main purpose of my vacation to the Northland in May 2006 was to see the giant Kauri tree. I had read about it and just had to see one for myself. As recent as two hundred years ago, there were still large tracts of these Kauri forests throughout New Zealand, especially in North Island. However, the arrival of the European settlers in the 1800s led to massive logging and decimated much of these ancient forests. The Kauri tree was prized for its huge size and strength of its timber and these qualities made it especially suitable for ship building. A mature Kauri tree is bare of branches at its trunk, except at its crown, so this made it particularly attractive for use as the masts of sailing ships.

The Kauri tree is a coniferous tree. Like the giant Sequoia tree of North America, the Kauri tree can grow to become a very large tree and it can live beyond a thousand years! A mature Kauri can grow to heights of 40-50 metres with trunk diameters of 3-4 metres. A young Kauri is characerised by branches along its trunk which gives it a shape of a cone (hence coniferous tree). As it grows, it continually sheds its lower branches. At maturity, branches are found only at its crown and the mature Kauri is characterized by its imposing trunk that is bare of branches.

Today, the largest area of mature Kauri forest is found in Waipoua Forest in Northland. It is a 2,500 hectare forest which contains three quarters of remaining New Zealand Kauri. The largest living Kauri, named after the Maori god Tane Mahuta, which means “God of the Forest”, has a height of 51m, trunk diameter of 4.4m and a girth of 13.3m ! Te Matua Ngahere, which means “Father of the Forest”, is believed to be the oldest living Kauri and estimated to be more than 2,000 years old! Some of the larger Kauri trees felled in the past could be older than Te Matua Ngahere.

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Giant Kauri 600-800 years old, trunk bare of branches
Puketi Kauri Forest, May 2006
Instead of Waipoua Forest, I had visited Puketi Forest to see these giant trees. That morning had begun with rain and mist. Fortunately, the mist had started to clear up when we made our way into the forest. My original photos of these trees did not turned out well and resulted in the blurred effect. I am a little disappointed that this is the best photo I have of these Kauri giants. This Kauri tree is estimated to be 600-800 years old and compared to Te Matua Ngahere, it would only be a teenager! Nevertheless, it was a great experience to have met and be awed by a living thing this old !

If you want another glimpse of the giant Kauri tree, turn on your speakers, click here for the video and don’t wait too long before you experience your magical New Zealand vacation:

100% Pure ! video (click here)

World Famous Mangonui Fish and Chips Shop, Doubtless Bay

Mangonui is located at the Doubtless Bay region of Northland. Once a bustling and busy whaling port, today it retains its charm as a quaint fishing village with many of its historic buildings housing restaurants, cafes, gift shops and the post office. Interestingly, Mangonui means “big shark” in Maori. However, it is not shark or its fishing industry that draws many tourists and Kiwis here but fish and chips! The star attraction is its world famous Mangonui Fish and Chips Shop which is sited along the main road and enjoys especially good business from the tour coaches.

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World Famous Mangonui Fish and Chips Shop
Mangonui Village, May 2006
This shop has the reputation of having been voted several times as the best fish and chips in New Zealand! As it is also a fish shop which serves the locals with fresh fish every day, I guess its “secret” lies in the freshness of the fish. I quite enjoyed its fish and chips and the order came with a generous serving of chips. Usually, being famous means a premium price but the price was reasonable at this shop (though I can’t recall how much I paid for the meal).

As a fish shop, it offers many varieties of fresh fish. You will get to select which type of fish to go with your chips. You will given an order number while your meal is being cooked. Many of the tours stop at this place so be prepared to wait for your food but you will get enough time to enjoy your meal. You may wish to dine on the deck which overlooks the harbour.

I had the time to wander along the road to enjoy this peaceful scenic view. There were a few albatrosses in the air that afternoon. They would glide slowly in the air, gain some height and then suddenly plunging down into the water with a “smack”, to emerge later from the water (could even see the fish in their beaks in some instances) and then flying off. It was kind of enchanting to see them do that again and again. The memory that Mangonui left with me was that of the albatrosses gliding overhead in this peaceful scenic place and less of the fish and chips in my tummy!

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Mangonui Village, May 2006

Giant Sand Dunes at Ninety Mile Beach, Cape Reinga

Below photo was taken on the hill at Cape Reinga. The islands off the coast are the “Three Kings” which according to Maori belief is where the spirits of the deceased would turn around to have one last look at land before heading out to the open sea towards their spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. The beach on the left leads to the Ninety Mile Beach and on the other side of Ninety Mile Beach lies the Giant Sand Dunes.

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The "Three Kings" off Ninety Mile Beach
Cape Reinga, May 2006
The Giant Sand Dunes are a popular tourist spot. Many tourists take the opportunity to slide down the huge sand dunes. It probably is fun playing on the sand and even though the sun was out that day, I was not too keen to join my fellow tourists. It was very late autumn, perhaps even the start of winter, and we were all wearing our jackets and shoes when we stepped out of the coach. Taking my jacket, socks and shoes off for one hour in rather cool weather is definitely not my idea of fun!

If some day you plan to see the sand dunes and have your fun too, do come prepared to get dirty and wet. Some fellas got bumped off their boards on the bottom slope and flipped over and some others could not stop in time and ended up in the stream below!

Below photo puts the size of these giant sand dunes in perspective. Be forewarned, the ride down is exhilarating but you will find it a challenge walking up the sand dune for the next ride again.

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Boarding on the Giant Sand Dunes
Ninety Mile Beach, Cape Reinga, May 2006

Cape Reinga, "The Leaping Place"

At the northern end of North Island of New Zealand lies Cape Reinga. It is often mistaken as the northernmost point of North Island. However, that privilege really belongs to Surville Cliffs which is some 30km away.

Cape Reinga is sacred to the Maori. In Maori language, Cape Reinga is known as Te Rerenga Wairua, which means the leaping-off place of spirits! In Maori belief, the spirits of the deceased would make their way to the cape and from this point, the spirits depart the mainland and make their journey in the afterlife to their spiritual homeland in Hawaiki. As they depart, they turn briefly at the “Three Kings” islands for one last look towards the land and then continue on their journey.

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The famous mailbox on the right
Cape Reinga, May 2006
New Zealand is often perceived as having lush greenery but at Cape Reinga you will discover a desert of giant sand dunes and quicksand! You will see the sand dunes on the left side of above photo. The “Three Kings” are the islands off the coast.

One of the things you may wish to do is to drop a postcard at the Cape Reinga mailbox. It is shown on the right of above photo. Postcards dropped at this mailbox will bear the special postmark “Cape Reinga”. There are no tourist shops around here so purchase the postcard and postage stamp prior to making this trip.

Continuing from the right of above photo is the Cape Reinga Lighthouse. While this area certainly looks like a nice picnic ground, out of respect to Maori, all visitors are requested to refrain from food and drinks on this sacred land.

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Cape Reinga Lighthouse, May 2006

New Zealand, "Land of the Long White Cloud"

New Zealand, called Aotearoa, “Land of the Long White Cloud” by the Maori, is a breathtakingly beautiful country. It is a land of majestic snow-capped peaks, pristine lakes, glaciers descending to rainforests, fiords, geysers, volcanoes, .... etc. Few countries can compare to having such geographical diversity.

The Wikipedia lists various explanations how the name Aotearoa came about but whatever legends or modern explanations, it is a land of such stunning natural beauty that the Kiwis (not the bird) refer to it as God’s own country !

Known also as sheep country, there are as many as 10 or more sheep for every person in New Zealand. With a population of about 4.1 million people, it is one of the world’s least crowded countries.

Stunning views, easy access, recreational activities, friendly people, clean and safe environment, .... whether you are seeking adventure or relaxation, all these are ingredients to a great vacation! I thoroughly enjoyed New Zealand and am certain you would too.

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Land of the Long White Cloud
Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, June 2005
Let me welcome you to the “Land of the Long White Cloud”.